Inhabited, west coast, Scottish islands - Raasay.

Continuing south to north and east to west, the next inhabited island on my list, since Scalpay (Skye) is uninhabited, is Raasay. Raasay is a smallish island north of Skye’s north coast (see my post on Soay (I think it was) regarding my definition of Skye’s coastline). It sits roughly north to south and is about 14 miles long but only three miles wide at it’s widest (one article I read claimed 5 miles wide but 3 seems to be the consensus). It is shaped rather like the flame of a lit match: rounded and blunt at it’s southern end tapering to point at it’s northern, slightly twisted, end. Raasay is basically a ridge of hill, higher in the middle and at it the southern end but slowly tapering off, elevation wise, at it’s northern end. The highest point of the ridge is the flat topped summit of Dun Caan, standing at 1457 ft (444 meters). Although sitting north of Skye, it’s west coast is almost parallel to Skye’s Trotternish peninsula. This is because Skye’s north coast twists from running roughly east to west between Kyleakin and Portree to almost running north to south, west of Portree. The stretch of water between Raasay and the Trotternish peninsula is the Sound of Raasay. To the east of Raasay is what is known as the Inner Sound, which lies between Raasay and Applecross on the mainland. The sound of Raasay is a bit narrower compared to the Inner Sound. I have also read that both stretches of water are very deep, apparently the deepest on the UK’s continental shelf, due to the glaciers, which once covered Skye, scouring out the trenches as they retreated north. Unless you have your own boat, or a helicopter, the only way to get to Raasay is by the Cal-Mac car and passenger ferry, which regularly runs between Sconser on Skye (which is on the A87 between Broadford and Portree) and Clachan on the west coast of Raasay. There’s no booking for this ferry: just join the queue and go.

According to the famous, online encyclopedia, Raasay has a population of around 160 (late 2024). Most of that population is concentrated on the south western coast between Clachan (where the jetty is) and Suisnish. The only proper village on Raasay is Inverarish (it hosts a shop and post office and the houses are pretty much strung closely together) and it, unsurprisingly, sits in the middle of this populated area. There are further settlements just north of Clachan at Oskaig and Holoman and a scattering of homes round the south coast near Eyre, over on the east coast at Fearns (south and north) and up near the northern tip at Arnish. Income on Raasay is mainly through tourism and some fishing, crofting and whisky distilling. Close to the jetty is Raasay house which is, these days, a community owned hotel and activity centre which also houses a restaurant, bar and coffee shop. Also in Clachan, but just a bit further south, is the Raasay distillery which also provides hotel style accommodation - and there are B&B establishments to be found scattered around, too.

As previously mentioned, Raasay is more or less a ridge of hill running south to north (if a bit lower and tumbled at the northern end than in the middle and south) and sports the usual range of hill covering for this part of the world: heather, course grasses, ferns and bracken. Like most hillsides in Scotland the bush and tree cover is not extensive - but is not totally lacking. There are, indeed, several areas on Raasay which sport quite a bit of woodland - both pine plantations and native trees. There is such an extensive area stretching from the Inverarish area eastwards towards the ridge above South Fearns on the east coast. There are other such areas between Clachan and Oskaig, between Oskaig and Holoman, just to the south of Brechal and at Arnish (which from memory was mainly a native woodland). In addition to that there are many smaller wooded areas dotted about all over. Apparently Raasay is also home to red broomrape, dark red helleborine, carline thistle (whatever they are) and orchids. Raasay is also home to red deer, otters, a species of bank vole found nowhere else in the world, stoats, weasels, mountain hares and water shrews. Both golden eagles and white tailed eagles might also be spotted - and, unsurprisingly, all the usual marine life to be found in the waters around Scotland’s west coast. A rich variety of life to be on the lookout for. Note that my information on the flora and fauna is all courtesy of the famous online encyclopedia.
 

What is there to do on Raasay? As mentioned, Raasay House, as well as being a hotel, is also an activity centre which provides, for example, boat trips, archery and kayaking. There are a few ancient and historical sites to visit including; a carved Pictish stone just to the north of Clachan, a ruined broch (to the east of Clachan and near the main road to the north end of the island) and Brochel Castle way up the east coast where Calum’s Road (also worth taking a drive along) starts. The story behind Calum’s Road is both inspiring and hard to believe. It’s not possible to do it justice in a short piece like this but I suggest anyone reading this does some research on it and then makes sure they visit it if on Raasay for even one day (as I was). There are a few other sites of interest to visit and, of course, many walks that can be undertaken and enjoyed, but no sandy beaches that I read about or saw (so maybe not ideal for a family with young children). I’d be more than happy to return to Raasay and spend a few days exploring in more detail than I had time for or my, so far, only visit.

As usual, I’ll end with a selection of photographs I took on my day visit to Rassay. I usually try to arrange my photos in an order which gives the impression of a circular tour. That is not really possible for Raasay as there is no circular route on the island - just two directions from the ferry, with the southerly route subsequently splitting into two. This provides for three destinations which are all dead ends. So, in the case of Raasay I have presented the photographs in the order taken. I would also admit to not doing my research properly before my Raasay visit. This is why, although there are quite a few photographs with this post, there are none of the carved Pictish stone nor the broch - because I did not know about either until after my visit.

 

 The photo above was taken on the Raasay ferry looking towards Clachan with Dun Caan beyond.

 

The photo above was taken from the approach road to the ferry at Clachan looking towards Raasay House.

 

 The photo above is of the Raasay distillery between Clachan and Inverarish.

 

The above photo is of a part of the village of Inverarish (of which there is more than this photograph shows).

 The above photo is of a part of the remains of an old iron works at Suisnish.

 

The photo above is of Eyre Point at the south east corner of Rassay.

 

The photo above is of the last house at Eyre on the road round the south coast of Raasay. Beyond the house is the modern, automated Eyre lighthouse. This is the end of part one of my visit as the route here has to be retraced back to Inverarish before turning east over the hill to South and North Fearns.

 

The above shot is of some of the ruins at the old iron mine, which is on the western side of the hill above Inverarish (on the way over to South and North Fearns). The iron was transported to the works and jetty at Suisnish by a rail line that was built only for this purpose. 

 

 This is a shot of one of the houses at North Fearns, looking north east(ish).

 

The above shot is of the last house on the road at North Fearns  The coast from here north is now uninhabited and lacking a road until you reach Brochel, although it was, before the Highland Clearances, well populated. There would, however, appear to be several abandoned townships with what is probably a rough track linking them.

The above photo is looking south down the coast at Fearns toward Eyre point. The automated lighthouse at Eyre can again be see and the land beyond is the island of Scaplay (Skye). This road, like the others on Raasay, is a dead end and because of this, you must return to Inverarish before heading north to reach the far end of the island.

 

 The photo above is of the township of Oskaig, looking south west towards the Red Cuillins on Skye.

 

This was taken from the coast road north looking towards the township of Holoman. There are two roads heading north from Inverarish. One runs close to the coast, through Clachan, Oskaig and Holoman, before turning east near Holoman and heading up hill to join a road which runs slightly above the coast road. It's this more elevated road that continues north to the dead end at Arnish.

 

 The photo above is of the ruins of Brochel Castle on Raasay’s north east coast.

 

The above photo is of the road sign indicating the start of Calum’s Road at Brochel. I presume the rusted shovel and wheelbarrow are the ones Calum used to build his road - which he then left as a marker of where he finished. I apologise for the picture being slightly out of focus - but mistakes are made.

 

This photo above is of a cairn built to commemorate Calum’s achievement. If my memory is correct, this cairn is located fairly close to the road sign at photo 15.

 

The photo above was taken at the same location as the cairn at photo 16, but looking south down the east coast of Raasay. The only reason for including this shot is that I thought it looked pretty atmospheric.

 

The photo above was taken from Calum’s Road towards Loch Arnish and Arnish. I hope it gives some sort of an idea of the rough terrain Calum had to build his road through.

 

The above photo was taken at Arnish. It’s looking north, probably along the type of track that Calum, and other Arnish residents, had to use before he built his road. This track eventually leads to the northern tip of Raasay with a couple of branches off to where other inhabitants once lived - before most of them decided that it was best to just relocate.

The photo above was taken from the ‘high’ road on my return to Clachan and the ferry back to Skye, with the Red Cuillins showing through the clouds. As with photo 17, I include this one simply because I think it looks atmospheric.